![]() Again, because I suspect this is because they think it is about sharpening images (My images are sharp already !! ) - but its not - it’s about compensating for the demosiacing. Similarly, some people think that you should turn sharpening off altogether. I get that some of this is personal preference but speaking as both a photographer and a designer who has used lots of other peoples images for client work, with picky clients, if your image is over-sharpened, a client won’t be able to use it. You can use them for additional “creative” sharpening too, but the main reason that we “sharpen” images is that it’s part of the raw conversion process. The main purpose of sharpening controls is to compensate for the softening that occurs when RAW files are demosiaced, and for the softening that happens from anti-aliasing filters on cameras that have them. Their main job isn’t to compensate for soft or out of focus images, although you can use them for that to an extent. The primary purpose of sharpening controls in RAW conversion software is not really to make your images sharper. The first is that the term “Sharpening” is kind of a misnomer. There are three things that you should always consider when working with sharpening settings, regardless of the software. ![]() The Three Most Important Things, and a quick primer on Sharpening Personally, I don’t like the defaults that the engineers at Capture One have chosen, and often the first thing I do, is to change them. While some cameras look fine with the default parameters, in many cases, in my opinion, they will look over-sharpened or over processed. If you shoot with multiple cameras you will often find that if you bring them in at the default settings, they will have different numbers for the various sharpening and noise reduction settings. SharpeningĬapture One has different default settings for different cameras. Whenever I get a new camera, it often takes me a little time to get the settings just right, but in the following post, I’ll share the parameters I often use when in a hurry, or where I start with when dealing in a new camera. In my opinion, Capture One’s defaults are set too high. Depending on your camera and the type of images you take, you may notice this too, especially with older images. However, I also often see complaints that details can look pixelated and over-processed. I gave 100,000 images I have not looked at in three years.One of the things some people often like about Capture One when they first try it is that they find it gives them sharper images or more detail than other software. It’s hard to go backwards, yet C1 is much better for editing for sure having to open a new session and wait for it to load instead of just clicking one thing and being up and running just makes it so much more work, not to mention C1 runs like a dog with no legs speed wise. Apple killing aperture instead of updating it killed photography for me. I paid full price for C1 3 years ago messed with it for 3 months and basically just quit photography, I used aperture daily until hat point for 10 years. In the aperture library you could just click “duplicate version” or “New version ftom original” right there and be working instantly. The aperture library contained EVERYTHING, and updated as changes where made, the C1 catalog only contains finished renderings and if you want to make an adjustment you have to go dig up the referenced file again manually, am I wrong? It means more work. I suggest taking advantage of the free trial and using that time to watch all of the tutorials C1 offers and see how you like it. Lately I find the marketing side of C1 annoying but it doesn’t detract from the hands-on editing experience. I like that I can organise the tabs how I want them (but wish it was as customisable as something like Premiere Pro, especially when using a secondary display), and use layers and the levels tool a lot (which LR didn’t have last I checked). ![]() I rarely shoot higher than about 800 ISO or worry about what images look like super zoomed in though so it may be that I am missing the problem that others encounter.īut as I said, C1 just suits me a lot more than LRC. When I first got my XT3 back in 2019, I felt that C1 better handled the wormy grain you can get from Fuji’s x-trans sensors but the last time I used LRC I felt that that had improved and I am not so sure it’s such a big advantage of C1 any more. I massively prefer editing RAW files in C1 but I am not sure that one is objectively better than the other, except probably that catalogue organisation is better in LR, and in C1, local edits with layers, and the convenience of sessions are better than anything in LR. I have the Fuji version of C1 but also need an Adobe sub so I occasionally use LRC.
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